Rock Canyon
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From I-15. Take I-15 North from St. George/Cedar City or I-15 South from Salt Lake City. At I-15 exit 269, follow University Pkwy east for 1.5 miles and take a left at 2230 North St. Follow the road for 1.2 miles and take a left on N Temple Dr. From here continue straight for another 0.4 miles and take a left at the four way stop onto North Iroquois. In 0.3 miles take a right on 2620 N. Follow to the end of the road and take a right on Foothill Dr. At the end of this road there is a large gravel parking lot on the left. This is the temporary parking for Rock Canyon. The trailhead is located at the far south end of the parking lot.
Coordinates
40°15'59.7"N 111°37'56.1"W
Temporary New Rock Canyon Trailhead
Cragtastic… Killer Summer Crag
Slabulous 5.10a (Sport Climb) 6 bolts plus anchors. This is the farthest route to the left. It starts in the darker black rock. Steep at the start on nice sidepulls and flat edges. The higher you go the bigger the holds. A great no hands stance allows you to clip the shared anchors with Chossome.
Chossome 5.7 (Mixed Climb) This climbs the shorter left crack, but first you need to throw in a cam or two (I believe I used a 3” cam) and then up the crack to a bolt out right. From there, it’s the crux where you pull over a big block to a no hands. I throw in a 5” cam here. Keep climbing up to a hand sized cam and then a run for the chains.
Sendsational 5.10b (Sport Climb) 7 bolts and anchors. This climb is a bit of an eliminate to make it more enjoyable and continuous. Pretty much avoid the crack to the left known as Chossome. You can throw in that 3” cam you used on Chossome to get to the first bolt. If you do use the crack on Chossome, expect the grade to be around 5.8. Staying on the face is so much fun on crisp flat edges almost the entire way.
Cracktacular 5.9 (Trad Climb) Climb up and over the block marking the start of Sendsational. You’re aiming for the crack going through the huge gaping maw. I love throwing in the 6” as well as the 5” cams before getting burly and pulling the roof daggers. After the roof You’ll place mostly cams from 4” down to 1” to arrive at the anchors. If you climb Modarete first, you can clip into the anchors of Cracktacular and figure what gear you need and if you’re ready for the roof part.
Modarete 5.7 (Sport Climb) 9 bolts plus anchors. This climb starts in a different spot than all the rest of The Cragtastic routes. It starts up a V-shaped gulley in between Black Rose and Cragtastic. This climb also get afternoon sun. It’s long and follows a shallow left facing dihedral for almost 100 feet. After you have climbed it, you can toprope it more enjoyable by starting near Chossome, climbing over the block and starting from there.